The Light in Tuscany

Do you have a happy place to visit on cold, rainy days?  Days when the washing piles up and your spirits sink down?  

I do…

They say the light in Tuscany is mesmerizing.

I found that difficult to understand.  Until one day, I saw the light.

Scarf wrapped tight to deflect the autumn chill, I sat sipping Prosecco crisp as the air while breathing in the warm, woody scent of roasting chestnuts.  I was surprised by a luminosity that crept peacefully across the Piazza.

The white marble Duomo glowed a pinkish red in reflection of the brick bell tower standing silently beside it.  The ancient stone buildings embraced the amber and golden hues of the leaves fallen around them.  The heavens were ablaze and I was watching through rose colored glasses.

As I watched the sun setting behind the crumbling walls of the village, it occurred to me that being in this light, this sunset, was spiritual, like an awakening to the wonderment around us.

And then it was gone, without a whisper.

Pietrasanta13 010

Where is your happy place?

Love and light,

mamacino x

A word about Religion…

I wouldn’t say I was a religious person, but I am interested in religion.  And any kind of spiritual practice – not just my christened faith of Church of England.  Though we attend services at Christmas and Easter, I’m certainly not a regular.  Today I went to the Holy Communion service at my local Anglican church and it has kept me deep in thought for much of the day.

I have always loved history.  Story telling, art, philosophy…it’s absolutely my cup of tea and I imagine it is where my interest in religion stems from.  When travelling in Italy, my daughters and I developed quite a fixation on Mary (well, it’s hard not to…) which began with seeing Michael Angelo’s La Pieta in St Peter’s for the first time.  This sculpture of Mary, so publicly suffering with a grief so raw over the death of her only son who she holds in her arms, is so powerful it bought tears to my eyes.  I was struck by a sense of overwhelm, a sense than one mother’s grief is felt by all mothers, the bond between us is so strong.  And that is what I find so interesting about religion and about faith, it’s ability to evoke emotions you didn’t even know were there.

La Pieta by Michael Angelo

La Pieta by Michael Angelo

At the service today, the sermon was about being good, but taking risks…even if your ‘goodness’ was at risk, it was worth it to grow and expand and fulfil your potential (well, that’s what I took from it).  The prayer was for those suffering in times of war and despite the politics, a reminder that we all share the same history.  There was a blessing for a young woman about to depart on an ‘overseas adventure’.  Almost the entire congregation joined in the blessing and prayed for her safe return…now whether you are religious or not, that’s go to make you feel better about getting on an aeroplane!

Dalai Lama...said beautifully.

Dalai Lama…said beautifully.

I enjoyed the opportunity to reflect, to think a little deeper in a quiet space and to share the feeling of community and belonging.  I left the service feeling quite uplifted and well, good, kind…patient.  These feeling ran out at around 4pm when I found myself hiding behind my dressing gown in my dark walk-in-robe from a wailing, sticky toddler who was not coming to say ‘peace be with you’ that is for sure! Maybe once isn’t enough…I better go again next week…and maybe the week after as well….

Are you interested in religion?  What does it mean to you? Love, Kindness, Gratitude?…I would love to hear your views…

Love and light,

mamacino x

 

Shopping in Italy…

I don’t sleep very well.  

When I drag myself into bed, exhausted at the end of the day, I feel like my body is so ready to let go and drift away into a deep sleep but my brain says ‘just kidding!’  I lie awake for hours thinking of all kinds of things…usually all the things I did wrong in the day and how I can be a better Mother, wife, sister….Sometimes I plan dinner parties.  This can be fairly meditative.  But last night my mind drifted back to Italy and more specifically, to shopping in Italy…it was like having a beautiful dream, only being awake at the same time.

Roma

Driving from the airport to our apartment in Rome was such an experience, in many ways!  Coming into our neighbourhood and watching the day unfold was wonderful.  Our street was lined with all different kinds of shops…gelati, pizza, cheese, fruit and of course…coffee.  It was like arriving in Heaven.  This is how people shop in Rome…in speciality stores.  Supermarkets do exist, but are not easy to find.  You may walk right past one, the only sign it’s there being an nondescript open doorway. Once inside, it is so exciting to discover that all of the items are Italian!  The service is abrupt and not terribly friendly…especially if you do not weigh and label your pomodori before you bring it to the cashier!

Flower Stall in Rome

And then there are the markets…my favourite way to shop.  Filled with colour and life, you will find fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds and flowers of every kind.  You will also probably witness a terrible argument between an elderly lady and the vendor who tried to cheat her by selling her a peach that was not perfectly ripe.  Italians take that kind of thing very seriously!

Hanging out at the Campo De Fiori, Rome

Sicilia

Where we stayed in Ortigia, Sicily, there was a market almost every day.  We would walk through the streets scented with the perfume of  clean laundry hanging above our heads, collecting wary glances from locals wondering who on earth we were and what on earth we were doing.  We tried so hard to converse in Italian, much to the amusement of the market stall holders…some of whom were friendly and some of whom were down right scary!

Buying Fruit and Vegetables at the Mercato di Ortigia

Hmmm…oh well, we bought some anyway!

We loved it!  The busy-ness, the chatter, the sense of purpose, feeling like we belonged if only for a moment.  And despite a few mishaps (a ten dollar baby watermelon amongst other things) we were successful!  We discovered the Cheese Man, our hero,  who would offer his customers tastes of his fresh Buffalo Mozzarella and order his Mamma out the back to make the Cannoli fresh for us each day…did I already mention Heaven?

Our good friend, The Cheese Man

Toscana

In Tuscany, it was a fight to see who would go each morning to buy the foccacia from Alessandra’s bakery (usually because that lucky person could scoff a bomboloni (jam doughnut) on the way home without anyone else knowing!)  We had better access to the supermarkets in Pietrasanta and would risk our lives walking along the busy roads to get to them when our gorgeous friend Toni wasn’t available to take us.  I could spend hours just looking at all the different products on the shelves and in the fresh bakery sections.

Allessandra with her two biggest foccacia fans…Francesca and Lucia…

In Italy, you wait patiently, then when it is your turn, you take your time asking as many questions as possible, sampling different things and asking advice as how to best prepare and serve your chosen item.  I remember waiting nervously once for my turn to buy bread, only to fumble my Italian and get all flustered and embarrassed.  When I turned to the other customers to say mia dispiace , sono Australiana, mio italiano è male (I’m sorry! I’m Australian..my Italian is terrible!), the customers couldn’t be more supportive and encouraging, insisting that I take my time.  I’m not sure I ended up with what I wanted but I didn’t care!

Market in Pietrasanta

So it is true, the Italians live their life around food.  Shopping for it, preparing it and eating it.  They take it seriously, it is so important to their daily life.  They search for the best produce, they prepare it lovingly and respectfully, they eat with family and friends.  It’s collaboration and celebration…just the way it should be!

Want to read more about our adventures in Italy?

Meeting our family in Sicily…

Christmas in Tuscany…

Harvesting olives and the Goddess of Fertility…

If anyone would like to sponsor me to return to Italy and bring you home more wonderful stories about life there, I’m totally open to it and available, no prior notice necessary!

Happy travelling!

mamacino x

Bella Lucca…

Do you have a favourite memory?  A day that was so perfect.  An experience you shared with your family that you love to reminisce about?  I have quite a few…but one that I think about often, that I dream of reliving one day is bike riding around the walls of Lucca.

Family day in Lucca…

We stayed just a hop skip and a jump away from Lucca when we visited Italy in 2009.  Actually, it was a train ride to Pisa and then another train to Lucca…or was it Via Reggio?  Now I’m not sure.  Anyway, it only took about half an hour and so it was an easy day out and we did it often.  Lucca is the most beautiful town.  Still surrounded by a large wall, originally built for the town’s protection..it holds so much history in it’s cobbled streets, churches and buildings.  It is also picturesque and leafy. It was such a pleasure to be within those walls.

Riding our biciclette around Lucca was such a dreamy experience but it wasn’t the only reason we loved to visit…Pizza da Felice, our favourite pizza shop was to be found (not easily) down a small backstreet.  It was a tiny little cafe brimming with locals.  We bought our pizza margherita by weight and we were generous.  We feasted on cecina, a local pizza/crepe made from chickpea flour, served with olive oil and lots of crunchy salt.  We let the girls drink lemonade while we washed our lunch down with a glass of red before heading off to work off our excesses riding into the cold, our noses red but our tummies full.

Waiting for a spot…it’s worth the wait!

Yay! Cecina!

We had some fun in Lucca.  It was hysterical to see my mum on a bike (sorry mum!)…My mum is not the most confident of riders, probably because she has a habit of veering in to anyone, young or old, that comes within her vicinity.   We went ice-skating when the winter began, we browsed markets and ate gelato.  Many, many machiati were enjoyed and many hours passed window shopping in the sophisticated stores.

On the bike with Francesca in the back…

It was wonderful to experience Lucca as a family but it was also really beautiful to be riding on the bike, soaking in the sights and sounds of this beautiful Italian town and taking the time to reflect on this most amazing journey in peace and solitude.  It was inspiring and so good for the soul.  I would give anything to return one day.  It will happen, I know it.  I couldn’t be more sure.

Would you like to read more about our trip to Italy?  If you do, have a look at these posts…

Christmas in Italy

Olives and the Goddess of Fertility

My Italian Family

Winter in Italy – a story in pictures

What is your favourite memory?  Do you have a place in the world that has a special place in your heart?  Feel free to share your special moments with us, because that’s what keeps our precious memories alive.

Winter in Italy – A Story In Pictures

It’s cold and raining here today.  The perfect weather to snuggle up in front of the fire with a cup of tea, simmer soup slowly for dinner and leave your Ugg boots on ALL day.  Well, that’s what I’m doing anyway…and…I have been gazing longingly at some photos of our time in Italy.  We spent a winter in Tuscany and it was wonderful…I thought I’d share some of my favourite photographs with you…

One door closes…and another one opens….

My favourite doors in Pietrasanta, we have SO many photos of doors and windows!

Winter Wonderland…

The hill town above the walls of Pietrasanta…the view from our Piazza…

You mean this cake’s for me?

When it came to brioche, we had to restrict ourselves to Wednesdays, Sundays, Birthdays, special occasions or if we really, really couldn’t resist…

The view from my bedroom window…seriously!

Our Street…Via del Pogetto

Well worth the short trek up and down for an espresso or gelati…

Hanging out in the Piazza del Duomo…

This is on the steps of the church where people like to hang out….

La Casa Bella…our home in Italy

I know, we couldn’t believe it either!

It’s never too wet or too cold to make the dash to the Piazza for a cappucino

Best friends…fun in the garden

Our furry friends…frequent visitors to our garden

An angel sleeping…

These are but a few of the many beautiful photos I have of our amazing time in Italy…it was a few years ago now but I truly can not get over it.  I am constantly dreaming up ways of how we can return…

I hope you have enjoyed this little rainy day trip down memory lane…do you have a place in the world that is special to you?  Tell us about it…we could all use a little cyber holiday….

mamacino x

My Italian Family

Ever since I can remember, I have been fascinated with all things Italian.  My Grandfather comes from Sicily and even though he left his home to live in Australia when he was only a boy, I have always felt a strong connection with Italy.  The language, the food, the people…if there was a book, I would read it, a movie, I would see it…I won’t admit to the number of times I have seen Under the Tuscan Sun!  When we travelled to Italy in 2009, we were determined to find our family.  We had a name and an address given to us by Aunty Lena…though she couldn’t be sure if these people were still alive!  With hope and optimism we began our search and the experience that followed, I will remember forever.

Sitting in Mr. Aliberti’s apartment in Ortigia, Sicily, we decided we must do something about contacting our relatives.  We couldn’t come this far and not give it a go.  It might be our only opportunity…who knew when we might be back in Italy again?  With only a name and address, it was a long shot, but we decided to send a post card on which we wrote, in very bad Italian…

“Buon Giorno…we are your relatives from Australia.  We are in Sicily.  Would you like to meet us for a coffee?”

We were laughing as we sent it…if you have ever experienced the Italian Mail System, you would know anyone receiving anything is a minor miracle.  Surely, we wouldn’t hear anything but what could we do?  We lit a candle, said a prayer to the Madonna and then went off to the Piazza for a glass of wine, all but forgetting about the chance to meet our family.

Mr. Aliberti's Apartmento...

And so you can imagine our surprise when only two days later, we received a phone call from our cousin (and I use that term loosely) Mattia!  They had received our card and were so excited that we were in Sicily.  We must come to meet the family and stay with them in Ragusa, at the insistence of Mamma!  We were up for an adventure so we agreed and made all the arrangements for the five of us (my husband and I, my mum and our kids) to travel there by bus the following week.

We had no idea what we were getting ourselves in for.  We had read so many stories of these kinds of reunions…we didn’t know these people and we didn’t really even know how we were related to them or even if we were related to them!.  My mum was getting cold feet imagining herself in an apartment with goodness knows how many noisy Sicilians…I had a good feeling about it so off we went with an open mind …and lucky we did as it turned out to be  one of the best nights of our trip, if not our lives!

After a lengthy bus ride made so by the drivers insistence of stopping at almost every bar we passed for an espresso and a cigarette, we arrived in Ragusa and were met with kisses and hugs by Mattia and his Mamma, Ermina.  Apparently it was obvious that we were the Australiani.  They had reconsidered our accommodation and to ensure our comfort, took us to a beautiful boutique hotel overlooking Ragusa Ibla, the old town.  We were to be ready at 8pm. Mattia would pick us up and take us  to the family home for dinner.  Mamma had been cooking all day…this was looking promising.

Beautiful Ragusa...where my Grandfather was born...

And so, as promised, we were collected at 8pm.  It was getting late…the girls who were only 3 and 5 were normally in bed by that time and we hadn’t even eaten…We drove around, Mattia pointing out the cities attractions until we got the call from Mamma…the dinner was ready, we could come home.  We arrived at the family home which was lovely and not unlike our own home in Australia.  Everyone was there…at Mamma’s insistence.  All the introductions were made and we were welcomed with open arms to Angelo’s home, Angelo being my Grandfather’s cousin, we think.  And so with fifteen of us around the table, dinner was served…thank goodness, because with Mattia being the only one to speak English and our Italian being really, really bad…the conversation was slightly awkward.

We began with anti pasta, then lasagne which we all devoured not realising how many more courses were to come.  Mangiare, mangiare…and so we did.  My husband ate so much lasagne he almost burst but had to continue on with wine, roast porcetta and vegetables, salad, cheese, cannoli, torte and finally, grappa.  It was exactly like I always dreamed an Italian family meal would be.  Delicious, warm, fun and very noisy!

La Famiglia!

By midnight, we were exhausted and almost bursting.  Mattia delivered us home to our hotel and promised to collect us the following morning for more sight seeing.  We were overwhelmed with the warmth and hospitality our family had showered us with.  Family is everything in Italy…even the family you never even knew existed!

The streets my Grandfather might have walked as a young boy...

Meeting our Italian family was such a special part of our trip and we still talk about it all the time…we marvel over actually finding them…what were the chances?  We reminisce about that magical dinner and how we would love the opportunity to return the favour.  I still chat to Mattia on facebook – I’m supposed to be practising my Italian but I cheat and use google translate – and I quiz him on everything his Mamma has made him for lunch and dinner that day begging for the recipes.  It’s a connection, a chapter in our family story…a story that hopefully, we can add more laughter, fun and memories to in the years to come.

mamacino x

Olives, Italy and The Goddess of Fertility

Funny how thoughts seem to string together to become inspirations, memories and a map of the way our minds work.

Today I have been thinking about olives.  In fact, I’ve had this on going craving for warm olives for a while.  Deciding  what to prepare for dinner got me wondering about dishes with olives.  Dreaming about cooking reminded me of harvesting olives in Italy and tasting the fresh Olio Nuovo … which started me reminiscing about climbing olive trees, which got me thinking about Botero.

When we lived in Pietrasanta, Italy for a few months, Fernando Botero was our neighbour.  He live a few terraces behind us in a beautiful villa which overlooked the olive groves, the Piazza del Duomo and Versilia and the sea beyond.  The fact that it was actually Botero’s summer house and he wasn’t in residence when we were there is not important…in fact it gave us the perfect opportunity to climb the olive trees surrounding his property to take photographs of the beautiful bronze sculpture of The Goddess of Fertility who stood with honesty and grace amongst the flowering plants of his front garden.

Something about the 'fullness of form' Botero uses that I can relate to...

For those who take their art seriously, Botero, creator of monumental sculptures, oil paintings, water colours and drawings, is known for his optimistic and likeable creations…

“Taking the concept of volume to paroxysms of exaggeration, with their fullness of form, his works…are a synthesis of the classical Italian Renaissance tradition and South American and pre-Columbian culture, and are immediately and instictively likeable”

The Warrior

For us, recognising and admiring Botero’s works,  in his garden and in the piazzas of Pietrasanta,  gave us the feeling of connection and belonging we desperately craved as temporary residents of this amazing country.  We fell in love with the serene sculptures and vibrant paintings.  Listening to Miss F, who was three at the time, tell the story of the Heaven and Hell frescoes in the Church of Misericodia was both hilarious and impressive and hearing  both the girls say “oh look, there’s a Botero” in an off handed way was somehow satisfying, like we were relieved more than just gelati and pizza was making an impression.   Some culture was being absorbed along with all the olive oil.

Climbing the terraces to Botero's Villa..

And so from one thought comes another, and another…our time in Italy was so special to us as a family, not a day goes by I don’t remember it for one reason or another.  Now…back to the dinner preparations…stay tuned if you are keen on olives!

mamacino x